Mexico Today in Oaxaca

#MexicoToday – Last week we posted about how Jessica Seba and I were chosen to be a part of the Mexico Today program and today it is my pleasure to post a re-cap of the kick-off event that was held in Oaxaca over the weekend.

playing the marimba in oaxaca

Welcome to Oaxaca

It was clear that the weekend was going to be a cultural treat immediately after stepping off the plane Friday as we were greeted by the traditional sounds of the marimba, a type of xylophone that originated in southern Mexico. After being transferred to our hotel, the gorgeous Camino Real Oaxaca, we met for an introduction cocktail followed by a mezcal tasting, which really put us in the spirit – pun intended.

Guelaguetza Dancers

After we’d become well acquainted with tequila’s smokey sister, we moved to the old chapel of the Camino Real (the 5-Star Camino Real is housed in what was originally the convent of Santa Catalina) for a massive buffet of Oaxacan flavors. As we ate, a group of traditional dancers performed many of the dances of the Guelaguetza festival, which is an extravagant event that takes place on a hillside in Oaxaca each year.

painting an alebrije

Alebrije in the making

Saturday began with an insightful meeting which included a panel discussion including guest speakers Antonio del Rosal Stanford (Mexican Brand Coordinator), Alejandro Ruiz (the famed chef of Casa Oaxaca), and Jacobo Angeles (a local artisan famous for his Alebrijes – brightly colored wooden figures). Following the discussion, we were driven out into the countryside to visit Jacobo’s workshop and learn about how the alebrijes are made. Before the demonstration, we were treated to more dancing, mezcal, and a fabulous lunch prepared by Jacobo’s family. During lunch, I was able to try chapulines for the first time, which are toasted grasshoppers – a traditional delicacy of Oaxaca. I must say, I quite enjoyed them and found them to taste like salted cranberries.

Lunch at Jacobo's Workshop

Returning from Jacobo’s workshop, we had just enough time to freshen up before joining a marching parade in the street (although a few of us snuck off to watch the USA vs. Mexico football match in a local cantina). Jessica tells me the parade was a highlight of the trip as our group carried colorful candles while they followed a group of traditional dancers through the streets – all the while being fed shots of mezcal. Some of our group were carried on the shoulders of some locals (atop a leather bull) and at the end of the parade, the group was greeted by a giant “Welcome Mexico Today” in fireworks. Back in the cantina, we saw fireworks of our own as the US went up 2-0 on Mexico, only to be destroyed 4-2.

Parading the streets of Oaxaca City

The group reconvened at Casa Oaxaca where chef Ruiz prepared a delicious three-course meal consisting almost exclusively of local meat and produce. Chef Ruiz has been a huge proponent of the “Local Foods” movement as growing and using your own food and produce has always been a way of life in the fertile lands of Oaxaca.

Dinner was followed by drinks on the town square, where we were serenaded by local mariachi bands and a few passing troubadours. Drinks were followed by more drinks in a cozy cantina around the corner from the Camino Real, which, for some of us, made for an interesting Sunday morning meeting. Grogginess aside, the farewell meeting was touching. I think I speak for the group when I say it was a true pleasure to meet so many talented people who all share a real love for Mexico. Journey Mexico, Jessica, and I are all honored to be a part of such a committed group, and we’d like to thank the Mexican Tourism Board, Marca País – Imagen de México, and Ogilvy for putting together such an inspired initiative and such a wonderful event.

The Mexico Today Team (Most of us)

Stay tuned to www.facebook.com/MexicoToday for posts from the group of contributors and be sure to follow #MexicoToday tweets for all the real-time happenings in Mexico!

New Images of Ancient Tomb at Palenque

The Ancient City State of Palenque

In January, we published an article about a robotic camera used to explore an underground tunnel running under the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent at Teotihuacan. Recently, another robotic camera has been used to produce the very first images of an ancient tomb at the archeological site of Palenque in Chiapas.

New Murals Found in Ancient Tomb of Early-Classic Palenque

Palenque is most known for the impressive pyramid called the Temple of Inscriptions, which is the burial site of a Pakal, a Late-Classic ruler of Palenque. The later rulers of Palenque are known to have written extensively about Palenque’s long history but because the Mayans (under the rule of Pakal and his successors) built what is currently seen at Palenque on top of they structures of the Early Classic dynasties, researchers have had a difficult time getting to the older structures.

Temple of Inscriptions

This newly explored tomb is located in the Southern Acropolis area of Palenque and is believed to be approximately 1,500 years old. The remote-controlled camera that was lowered into the tomb has revealed an “apparently intact funeral chamber, with offerings sitting on the floor. Wall murals depicted a series of nine figures, painted in black on a blood-red background.” A funerary costume of jade and shell were also seen, indicating that the site is most likely a royal necropolis possibly containing the remains of K’uk’ Bahlam I, the first ruler of the city-state.

1,500 Year Old Paintings Found in Tomb

Because of the date and on the identities of ancestral figures painted on the walls, there is also speculation that the tomb is the burial site of a noted female ruler of Palenque named Ix Yohl Ik’nal. If true, this would be the second remains of a female ruler found at Palenque, the first being those of the famous “Red Queen,” believed to be either Pakal’s wife or mother.

These new images (as we often like to point out) illustrate the continual opportunity for those interested in archeological travel to literally witness history in the making here in Mexico. It is believed that only ten percent of the archeological site of Palenque has been excavated, which is common as most of the Mayan archeological sites in Mexico still have much to be discovered. Stay tuned as we report on new findings as they are uncovered!

Mexico Today

mexico today program

It’s been over a year since the Journey Mexico blog was created to encourage others to engage in Mexico, to learn about Mexico, and possibly be inspired to travel with Journey Mexico! The blog has become a home for not only Journey Mexico accomplishments and expertise, but for all things fascinating about Mexico including articles about festivals and events, destinations, and facts.

Through our daily posts, lovers of Mexico are able to follow along as Mexico strives to make 2011 the “Year of Tourism” through the good, the bad, and the ugly. As in-country enthusiasts, we make it our business to promote the phenomenal travel experiences Mexico has to offer as well as combat biased media aimed to discourage travelers from Mexico with factual and personal coverage of current events.

The success of the Journey Mexico blog has recently attracted the attention of the Mexico Tourism Board’s Marca Pais – Imagen de Mexico initiative. The Mexico Today program is designed to give a louder voice to the positive happenings in Mexican economy, security, health, infrastructure, environment, and culture/travel.

Journey Mexico is proud to report that two members of our web-marketing team, Chase Buckner and Jessica Seba, have both been chosen as two of the sixteen contributors for Mexico Today, where they will share their honest and genuine opinions towards Mexico and reveal their experiences and expertise.

Today, Chase and Jessica, will be traveling to Oaxaca for the kick-off event and to meet their fellow participants – some of the best when it comes to the promotion of Mexico representing sites like: The Mexico Report, Mexico Unmasked, Stay Adventurous, Go Mexico Guide, Cancun Canuk, Mexico Guide, The Other Side of The Tortilla and Midwestern in Mexico, (just to name a few)!

As the project launches, we invite you to become acquainted with MexicoToday.org, join their Facebook page and follow them on Twitter. Also, follow along on Twitter as Chase and Jess post updates and photos from Oaxaca this weekend using hashtag #MexicoToday.


Mexico Today, in association with Marca País – Imagen de México, is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination. This program is designed to shine a light on the Mexico that its people experience every day.

Disclosure: Chase and Jessica are being compensated for their work in creating content as Contributors for the México Today Program. They are being invited to an all-expenses paid trip to Oaxaca for the kick off event for the Mexico Today program, where they will partake in several discussion groups and training activities. All articles posted with the “#MexicoToday” disclosure are the opinions of Chase and/or Jessica alone.

The Cultural Crossroads of San Juan Chamula

San Juan Chamula Church

Green Cross Outside the Church of Chamula

One of the most interesting stops on a recent trip through Chiapas was in a small town just outside San Cristobal de las Casas called San Juan Chamula. Our excellent guide Roberto had informed us on the way to the town that its people were some of the last Mayans to succumb to the Spanish and that their rebellious spirit has lived on since as the town currently holds a special autonomous status within Mexico. No outside police forces are permitted in the town. In terms of religion, the church of San Juan Chamula has gained legendary status due to its complex mixture of Christian and Pagan beliefs.

On the outside, the church of San Juan Chamula looks like most any Christian church of its time period yet when our guide asked us why we though the giant cross outside the church was painted green, we quickly realized that the Chamula church was anything but typical (Mayans paint the crosses green in homage to Mother Earth and The Sacred Tree of the Maya). Upon entering the church, we immediately noticed more green as there were no pews in the church and the floor was covered in fresh pine needles (also in tribute to Mother Earth).

Seated on the pine needles were several groups of people, each with their own family shaman who were there to heal the sick. The people of Chamula ran their priest out of town some years ago; however, they do allow the priest to return on certain occasions to baptize the children, but he is forced to leave again immediately after the ceremony. In the priest’s absence, the people of Chamula line the church floor with rows of candles and burn incense to achieve the proper mood for healing and prayer. Needless to say, the priest strongly disagrees with these practices and even more with the alcohol that is consumed in the church.

Photos are forbidden inside the church, but a few have found their way to the internet

Pox (pronounced “posh”) is an alcohol brewed of sugar cane and pineapple, which the shaman drink during their rituals of healing. They also pour the drink out on the floor for the saints as the saints are more likely to grant favors when they’ve had a bit to drink. In between drinks, the shaman chant the names of the saints of whom they are asking for help in repetition, creating a constant buzz in the air.

During the chants, many of the shaman were rubbing the bodies of their patients with eggs, which Roberto told us is a common practice used to heal. In more serious cases, a live chicken was rubbed on the individual before having its neck snapped by the shaman. This, Roberto explained, was because the people of Chamula believe that when someone gets really sick, it is because evil spirits have taken a piece or pieces of the person’s soul. To retrieve the missing soul, the shaman offer the life of the chicken in exchange for the stolen pieces. During the forty or so minutes we were in the church, I believe I saw at least three chickens killed in offering.

Surrounding the groups of shaman and patients are the statues of the saints to whom the people of Chamula pray. It was the presence of these status, undeniably catholic figures, that really intrigued and confused me. If the people of Chamula have already thrown out the priest, why keep all the Catholic/Christian relics? Long story short, Roberto explained that way back when the Spanish were establishing control, the Mayans had to accept a certain degree of Christianity to keep from being persecuted. On the flip side, the Spanish Catholics found it easier to establish control if they allowed the natives to weave their beliefs into the Catholic traditions. The result was a sort of mash up of the two religions, which, over time, became the norm.

Normal to us, however, it was not. I was fascinated by the range of reactions to the church from our group (which consisted of 13 travel experts from around the world). One thing I think we all agree upon was that visiting the church of San Juan Chamula is a true and unique travel experience not to be passed up. Watch the video below for the reactions of a few of our group members. If you’re interested in learning more about the church at San Juan Chamula, there are two great articles at forteantimes.com and www.philipcoppens.com.

2011 Pan American Games in Jalisco, Mexico

2011 Pan American Games Logo2011 marks the 16th Pan American Games during which 6,000 athletes from 42 nations will compete in 36 sports. By hosting the games this year, Mexico will become the first country to have hosted the event three times. This years Pan Am. Games will take place on October 14–30 and will be the largest multi-sport event in 2011.

Adding extra excitement to the event is the fact that the opening ceremonies will take place in Guadalajara’s new architectural masterpiece, Omnilife Stadium, which is now home to the city’s beloved Chivas football team.

Omnilife Stadium was designed to look like a volcano with a ring of clouds hovering above it. The stadium is both literally and figuratively green – lush grass covers the exterior of the complex and the stadium was designed to be a modern example of eco-development.

Guadalajara's New Omnilife Stadium

Before the opening ceremonies, an Olympic flame will be lit at the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan, just outside of Mexico City, and will travel for fifty days through all 32 of Mexico’s states before arriving at the Omnilife stadium.

Though most of the 2011 Pan American Games will take place in Guadalajara, certain events like sailing, marathon swimming, triathlon, and beach volleyball will be held on the state’s coast in Puerto Vallarta.

Black Pottery in Oaxaca: A True Travel Experience in Mexico

Doña Sophia of San Bartolo Coyotepec

Journey Mexico has always prided itself on offering travelers true travel experiences, meaning you’re not going to visit Oaxaca and just see examples of its famous black pottery; you’re going to visit a local home where a family of potters have been hand-making black pottery for centuries. You’re going to actually see the pottery being made. You’re going to meet and converse with the family and when you leave, you’re going to be sad to say goodbye to new friends.

The most recent Our Mexico web-ad features Doña Sophia, someone I feel privileged to have met on a recent trip to Oaxaca. So old she can no longer remember her own age, Doña Sophia still happily crouches down on her knees to give guests a live demonstration of how she has been making black pottery for almost a hundred years.

Unlike modern potters, Doña Sophia still spins her clay by hand on plates as opposed to using a mechanized wheel. As the craft was taught to her by predecessors, she has passed her knowledge down to her family and many of her daughters and granddaughters now decorate the crafts she molds before they are fired in an underground oven. In the video below, you can watch Doña Sophia in action as she crafts a jar for one of our recent groups.

Mexico Getting a Bad Rap

MSNBC has recently published an article called Time to Say Adios to Mexico? containing wildly misleading statements about safety in Mexico and insinuating that Americans have collectively decided to stop visiting Mexico altogether.

The article begins by stating that 34,000 people have died because of the drug war, yet it does not point out that that virtually all of the drug related violence has taken place in only a few specific boarder towns or that tourists and innocent bystanders have not and are not being targeted. The article makes no effort to contextualize these numbers with US murder figures as they would have had to acknowledge that Mexico has a murder rate of about 9.8 per every 100,000 people, which is actually less than that of US cities like Phoenix (12.6), Houston (12.5), and Los Angeles (17.1) (source).

The article then insinuates that tourism to Mexico is declining, when US investments in Mexico, US flights to Mexico, and the numbers themselves show otherwise. According to the World Travel and Tourism Council, the number of foreign tourist arrivals to Mexico in 2010 was 22.4 million – a 7% increase from 2009 and 2% more than in 2008, which was one of Mexico’s best years in history.

The US has been catching heat from international critics since they increased the State Departments Mexico travel warning with broad, misleading statements that don’t accurately specify the specific regions of danger. There’s been much speculation as to why the US media has been so relentless about publishing negative press related to Mexico, but one thing is certain – they’re not playing fair and it’s influencing a whole lot of Americans. In this recent post from MSNBC, they’ve included a poll asking “Would you visit Mexico given the worsening violence in some areas?” As of the time I am writing this post, 76% of the 20233 who have voted answered No.

If you’ve been to Mexico and can attest to its safety (like these recent travel experts) or if your just a fan of responsible reporting in general, please click here and vote “Yes” (the poll is below the picture to the right of the text) to show Americans that not everything is as your TV would lead you to believe.

Central & Southern Mexico Trip Photos

It took a while to get through all the photos, but here are the highlights from a recent trip through Central & Southern Mexico. You can turn the captions on and off by clicking the little speech bubble at the bottom left of the slideshow. Clicking a photo will take you to full sized version in our Picasa album. Let us know if you’ve been to any of these places or seen any of these things in person!

Huatulco First Destination in the World to Receive EarthCheck Gold Certification

Hautulco Mexico Receives Gold Certification

Huatulco Becomes The First Destination in the World to Receive EarthCheck Gold Certification

HUATULCO, Mexico, June 9, 2011 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/ — The coastal paradise, Huatulco in southern Mexico [Oaxaca], became the first destination in the world to receive EarthCheck’s Gold certification, in yet another display of Mexico’s sustainable tourism credentials. Previously, EarthCheck awarded Gold certification only to facilities such as resorts, and not communities such as Huatulco. Huatulco received the prestigious certification for meeting the rigorous sustainable tourism requirements of EarthCheck across a range of aspects such as environmental legislation, energy usage, water conservation, wastewater management, biodiversity, and waste reduction.

Speaking at the EarthCheck Sustainable Tourism Forum, also held this year in Huatulco, Adriana Perez Quesnel, director of the Fondo Nacional del Fomento al Turismo (FONATUR), said, “We are immensely proud to receive this certification and even more so to be the first destination in the world to do so. This achievement is a clear demonstration of how government, the private sector and local communities can work together to deliver significant benefits to the world in which we live.”

“FONATUR has driven sustainable practice in the Mexican tourism industry and has forged a vision of respect for nature conservation in Integrally Planned Resorts, to promote tourism, help strengthen the local economy and promote local traditions and culture.”

Huatulco has gained EarthCheck certification for the previous five consecutive years. As a result of the certification, Huatulco will be one of 13 global destinations featured on a new program on the Discovery Channel in 2012. The documentary will be broadcast to over 200 million people over the next two years.

“In Mexico alone, EarthCheck member organizations have saved a combined total of 26,349,880 kg of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) since data started being collected in 2003,” explained EarthCheck Ambassador, Gustavo Ramos Fumagalli. “They have also reduced water consumption by 2,196,674,635L of water, dramatically reducing pressure on natural resources in a country that is familiar with the unforgiving effects of drought.”

To meet Earth Check’s strict requirements, Huatulco constructed new water management infrastructure including:

* 17 km of storm protection channels,

* 23 re-lift stations for sewage treatment and management and

* Harvesting structures which collect storm water runoff.

In May 2011, Mexico was also recognized by the Rainforest Alliance in New York for its achievements in sustainable tourism in the Mayakoba region and the forestry practices of the Mexican government.

SOURCE Mexico Tourism Board

Our Mexico: Culture

Dona Sophia making black pottery in Oaxaca

Click image to view the full ad

The second of our Our Mexico web-ad series focuses on Culture in Mexico (click here to view the full ad). The main image in the culture ad was taken on a recent Journey Mexico trip through Central & Southern Mexico and features a woman named Doña Sophia. For nearly a century, Doña Sophia has been hand-making pottery in Oaxaca that when fired in a certain fashion, turns jet black. She is one of the few ceramic makers in Mexico who still turn the clay by hand instead of using a wheel. As she’s aged, Doña Sophia has been teaching her family to make the famous black pottery so that they can carry on the tradition after she is gone.

Travel Weekly Interviews President Calderon in Las Vegas

This article, originally titled In Vegas, Calderon bets on tourism, has been re-posted from Travel Weekly and was written by Arnie Weissmann

In April the World Travel and Tourism Council Global Summit was held in Las Vegas and during the event, Travel Weekly sat down with Mexico’s President, Felipe Calderón, to talk about the current state of tourism and safety in Mexico. Below is the interview:

Travel Weekly: Safety and security concerns have kept some American visitors from Mexico, and the U.S. State Department recently expanded its warnings. Do you believe that the updated warnings accurately reflect areas that might be dangerous to travelers?

President Felipe Calderon: In some cases they are out of proportion and don’t accurately reflect the situation. It’s as if there was an incident in Tucson and a warning was issued for the entire state of Arizona. I understand that, yes, we have a problem. And we are dealing with it — with the support of the American authorities, by the way — and we are moving ahead. And I understand the objective and the obligation of the American authorities to protect their own citizens. But we need to find a way to inform your people without affecting destinations [that aren’t dangerous].

TW: Travel Weekly recently put together a map that shows exactly where State Department warnings apply. Are there specific places where the State Department indicated there are problems but where you think there is no problem?

Calderon: Travel Weekly did a great job in doing so, because you need to put the problem in perspective. If you can see the geography of Mexico, it’s a huge country! And even inside a very problematic city, not all the parts of the city are problematic.

And, importantly, violence and organized crime are not affecting international visitors. Seriously, we had 23 million international tourists last year, plus 6 million visiting from cruise ships, and you can count with your fingers the number of incidents with international visitors regarding violence or organized crime.

But of course, I understand that the problem we have is of perception. The state of Quintana Roo [where Cancun, Cozumel and Riviera Maya are located] on the Caribbean Sea and [neighboring state] Yucatan have two homicides per 100,000 people. That’s much less than Jamaica or Barbados or Aruba or even Puerto Rico, which has 20. So please, put that in perspective.

TW: Do countries other than the U.S. have security alerts for Mexico, and if so, are they accurate? And are they affecting travel to Mexico by their citizens?

Calderon: Spain has one. But Spanish tourists are still coming. Tourism from Spain grew 33% last year. In Texas, authorities issued a warning about going to Mexico for spring break, and we had more spring-breakers coming from Texas.

TW: Were there any incidents involving college students and drug cartel violence during spring break?

Calderon: Absolutely not. Not one. Not for any U.S. citizen.

TW: In January, you declared 2011 to be the Year of Tourism for Mexico, and your presence here in Las Vegas at WTTC is certainly an indication you’re personally involved. But as a result, do you face criticism within Mexico from people who feel there are more important things you could be doing? If so, how do you respond?

Calderon: It was a very tough decision to decide to come here. You can imagine the cartoons related to the president of Mexico in Las Vegas. A lot of politicians either don’t understand the importance of tourism, or perhaps they understand but enjoy attacking the president.

But I don’t care about that. Tourism is a priority for the Mexican government, and we need to explain how important tourism is. I was absolutely sure that I needed to be here to talk to some of the most important people in tourism about the real situation in Mexico and the amazing opportunities we have.

Arnie Weissmann and Felipe CalderonTW: Yet, two years ago you were ready to remove tourism from its cabinet-level status. What changed your mind about tourism?

Calderon: Two years ago was a very difficult time for Mexico and for the world. Our economy went down by 10% in the first and second quarter of 2009 due to the economic crisis in the U.S. We suffered reductions in oil production. So we needed to make drastic adjustments on both income and expenditures.

I was not proposing we eliminate government support of tourism, but to put it under the Secretary of the Economy. In the discussion with Congress that followed, I decided to preserve the Secretary [of Tourism] and reinforce its resources and capability. We are absolutely committed to tourism, with my strong support.

TW: With all the difficulties facing Mexico tourism, airfares to Mexico from the U.S. are nonetheless relatively high. Will there be more seats added into Mexico soon?

Calderon: I asked a person recently to tell me two things Mexico could do to improve tourism. And he said, “Visas and planes.” We are increasing our visitors year after year, but the connections by plane are complex. I’d like to improve the situation, to increase competition and the number of flights. The prices are high because demand is high, and that means more opportunities. I know a lot of companies, not only Mexican companies but foreign companies, that are trying to bring more seats to Mexico. We need more competition.

TW: You have, at this point, a little more than a year left in office. What progress regarding tourism would you like to see occur between now and the end of your term?

Calderon: First, to change the perception about Mexico, and we are working hard on that. Second, I want to move forward to resolve any regulatory obstacles for tourism as regards visas or preclearance or things like that. Third, I’d like to see more competition among airlines that bring visitors to Mexico. Fourth, we have a lot of infrastructure projects that I hope to finish. Fifth, we need better campaigns of promotion for Mexico. Sixth, we need to train people better, our young students, through more schools of tourism.

The last year-and-a-half I have left in office is, for me, like the last quarter in American football. It’s the most important quarter, and most important of all is the final two minutes.

I’m going to play the best of my government in this year-and-a-half, for tourism and for anything.

Email Arnie Weissmann at [email protected] and follow him on Twitter.

Safety of Mexico Interview

safety of mexico interviewIn May of 2011, Journey Mexico lead a group of 13 travel experts from around the world on a 14 day excursion through Mexico City & Puebla, Oaxaca, Chiapas, and the Yucatan. On the final night of the trip, we sat down with member of the group and asked them: “At any point during your time in Mexico did you feel unsafe?” It’s not surprise to those of us who live here that their answer was overwhelmingly NO.

 

Mexico Puts a Lock on Gossip

On a recent trip through Central & Southern Mexico, I had the opportunity to visit the gorgeous cathedral on the zócalo (the main square) in Mexico City, where I came across an interesting tradition of which I’d never heard.

I was actually on my way out of the cathedral when I passed a little table that seemed to be overflowing with red ribbons. As I was passing, a woman approached the table with another red ribbon in one hand but with a small metal lock in the other. Intrigued, I stopped and watched as she parted some of the ribbons revealing a metallic grid around which she clenched the lock she was carrying. She then took the ribbon, tied it to the lock, said a little prayer, and then left.

Now I was really intrigued. Stepping forward, I realized the the ribbon she had tied to the lock had someone’s name written on it. Confused, I turned to our Journey Mexico guide, Juan Carlos, who was already laughing at my bewilderment. “The ribbons tied to the locks,” he explained to me, “are placed here to stop people from gossiping against us. If you feel that someone is gossiping or speaking ill about you, you write their name on a red ribbon then tie it to a lock you’ve secured to this table.”

Apparently, once you’ve tied a ribbon to your lock, Saint Ramon Nonato, the patron saint of pregnant women and gossip and whose statue sits behind the table, sees to it that your slanderer is quieted. Needless to say, many in our group approved of this tradition and went looking for ribbon.

Table Talk: Calabacitas Tiernas Guisadas

table talk imageIn this newest webisode of Table Talk, Journey Mexico and El Arrayán show you how to make Calabacitas Tiernas Guisadas, a fairly simple but extremely tasty dish. There are only four simple steps to this one, so we hope you give the recipe a try yourself and let us know how it turns out in the comments below!

Travel Safety in Perspective: USA vs. Mexico

This article was written by Tim Leffel and has been re-posted from his blog Tim Leffel’s Cheapest Destinations

There’s been a lot of news coverage about violence in Mexico, very little of it bothering to note that Mexico is a huge country with thirty-some states and that a) almost all of that violence is narco-related and b) you can count the number of tourists affected on one hand.

Meanwhile, according to the FBI, “An estimated 15,241 persons were murdered nationwide in 2009″ in the United States of America.

Officially, 111 U.S. citizens were killed in Mexico last year, a third in just two cities. Almost all of them were involved in illicit vocations, usually the trafficking of guns, drugs, or people across the border. This is 111 out of close to 8 million visitors, with nearly 1 million of those being part- or full-time residents choosing Mexico over the U.S. or Canada.

You know who else had 111 murders in one year recently? Boston. And Las Vegas. And Orlando. Are any tourists scared of going to those places?

Meanwhile, almost 1,000 U.S. citizens died in Puerto Rico. Nobody running the news desks cares about Puerto Rico or has an incentive to make people scared of Puerto Ricans (by nature, they can’t be “illegal immigrants”), so this isn’t widely reported.

Then there’s the U.S. proper, which can’t get a State Department travel alert because it’s, well, not a foreign country. How’s your city doing in comparison to Mexico when it comes to the annual numbers?

Atlanta  – city, 80 murders. Atlanta MSA (metropolitan statistical area), 325 murders
Baltimore – 238 city, 298 MSA
Boston – 50 city, 111 MSA
Dallas/Ft. Worth – 210 city, 310 MSA
Detroit – 365 city, 447 MSA
Houston – 287 city, 462 MSA
Indianapolis – 100 city, 111 MSA
Jacksonville, FL – 99 city, 120 MSA
Kansas City – 100 city, 163 MSA
Las Vegas – 111 city, 133 MSA
Los Angeles – 312 city, 768 MSA
Miami  – 59 city, 377 Miami to Boca Raton corridor
New Orleans – 174 city, 252 MSA
New York City – 471 city, 778 MSA
Orlando – 28 city, 111 MSA
Philadelphia – 302 city, 436 MSA
Phoenix – 122 city, 302 MSA
San Francisco – 45 city, 292 MSA
St. Louis – 143 city, 210 MSA
Washington, DC – 143 city, 325 MSA

To put things in perspective, the murder rate in the Yucatan state of Mexico is 2 per 100,000. That’s about the same as Fond du Lac, Wisconsin or Evansville, Indiana. Mexico City’s is 8 per 100,000. Despite being one of the most populated cities on the planet, that’s on par with Albuquerque, NM. I don’t know about you, but I’ve never felt scared in Albuquerque…

Another Wold in Merida: Hacienda Xcanatun

During recent travels throughout Central & Southern Mexico, I had the chance to visit the capital city of Yucatan, Merida, with which I was very impressed. Located just off the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and home to almost a million people, Merida makes the perfect launching point for excursions to many of the ancient Mayan archeological sites in the area. As impressed as I was with Merida, however, I was even more impressed with the level of privacy, tranquility, and luxury offered at a local hacienda located just minutes from the hustle and bustle of the capital.

Hacienda Xcanatun

Hacienda Xcanatun in Ruins

Hacienda Xcanatun was originally constructed in the 18th century to cultivate corn and raise livestock but eventually began growing and processing sisal, which is strong fiber from a type of agave plant that was used to make the twine and rope that brought the Yucatan unprecedented amounts of wealth towards the end of the 18th century. Unfortunately, the introduction of synthetic replacements for sisal left Hacienda Xcanatun and most other haciendas in the Yucatan in a decline to ruins. In 1995, however, experts in Colonial and Mayan architecture worked together to rebuild Hacienda Xcanatun into the remarkable property it is today.

Suite Patio

Entering the hacienda is like entering another world altogether. I had a hard time comprehending how we could be just minutes from downtown Merida yet hear nothing but the birds and fountains of the property. The staff of Hacienda Xcanatun gave us a wonderful tour of their many levels of suits and rooms, which were all truly impressive. It is obvious that the owners took great care and paid great attention to even the most minute of details in each room. One suite has a wrought iron spiral staircase inside leading to a second bedroom and others have jacuzzis made of stone in the bathrooms!

Suite Bathroom

After our tour of the property, we were treated to a special five-course lunch at Casa de Piedra, Xcanatun’s restaurant, as guests of owners Jorge Ruz and Cristina Baker who, in turn, requested that chef José Vázquez (one of the most skilled chefs in Mexico) host them in their absence. Casa de Piedra was selected as one of the top 50 restaurants in Mexico by the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences based in New York City, and has been the recipient of the Academy’s Star-Diamond award for excellence over the past eight years. After looking at the photos below, it’s needless to say that the meal was spectacular! In addition to the savory food, the ambiance of the room was both elegant and comfortable, and we were treated to live music as a local pianist who played wonderfully as we dined.

Gourmet Tostada

Seafood Ceviche

Chocolate & Caramel Cake

JM President Zachary Rabinor with chef Jose Vazquez

On behalf of Journey Mexico and our group of international travel experts who were on the trip, many thanks to the Hacienda Xcanatun for such a wonderful day! For more information about the Hacienda Xcanatun, please contact us at [email protected].

The San Marcos National Fair – A True Mexican Experience

This is a guest submission written by Joel Duncan of Adventure Jo during his travels to the San Marcos Fair in Aguascalientes, Mexico, which is held from the second week in April until the first week in May

AGUASCALIENTES, MEXICO – “Hey bro where are you from? I’m from Chicago and I’m here with my wife and my buddy from college”. “I’m from Canada”, I replied to the sunburnt man dressed in a baseball cap, shorts, sneakers and an oversized t-shirt. His eyes gleamed with excitement as he confessed that I was only the second English speaker he had met in his three days at the San Marcos National Fair in the Colonial Heartland.  He furthered to say that the only reason he knew about the fair was because his wife was born in Aguascalientes. As I scanned the faces of the lively sea of people drinking, dancing and parading through the busy streets, I felt selfishly satisfied, that I had stumbled upon something truly Mexican.

Two days earlier, I checked into La Katharina Hostel, a relatively new hostel only steps away from the iconic Jardin de San Marcos (San Marcos Garden), the gateway to the heart of the fair.  I was the only foreigner in my 6-bed dorm room – no Aussies, Canadians, Israelis or Americans; as a matter of fact, I was the only foreigner in the entire hostel. When I pictured going off the beaten path, I envisioned traveling to an undiscovered village in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, not to Mexico’s biggest and most important fair.

More than 100 years ago, The San Marcos National Fair (dubbed Dreamland by its organizers) started off as an event to promote livestock and other products from Aguascalientes.  Today, the fair is said to attract an estimated 7 million tourists over a 3-4 week period. Although livestock is still an important part of the fair, it isn’t what continues to lure millions of predominantly Mexican tourists to the small industrial state. The fair’s organizing committee has created a culturally rich program that is aimed at the entire family and showcases the music, theatre, art, dance, and literature of hundreds of Mexico’s artists. Most of the organized events are free and are hosted in museums, galleries, and stages set up around the city, so a good pair of walking shoes and camera is all that’s needed.

Bullfight at San Marcos FairSome of the more popular attractions include the bullfights, cockfights, a casino, and of course – the parties. I skipped the cockfights and casino but decided to go to my first bullfight, in hopes of having a real cultural experience.  With a seating capacity of 15,000 people and an incredible construction time of only 48 days, the arena was nothing short of impressive. Passionate screams of ‘Ole’ and continuous whistling could be heard as the animated matadors teased and evaded the infuriated bulls. Although I enjoyed the energetic atmosphere of the arena, I only stayed for a half-hour, as my stomach and conscience could no longer handle the very one-sided and bloody battles.

When the sun went down, the party turned up, and although there are numerous posh nightclubs and bars, the biggest bash happened right in the streets. The sounds of tamboras (drums) and trumpets filled the air as Mariachis and Norteñas competed for the attention of those eager to dance the popular polka-infused banda. A cold cerveza was always in reach since during the festival, drinking in the streets is permitted (or should I say encouraged). Countless small stands lined the streets, serving up 1-litre cups of just about any alcoholic beverage the heart desired.  Second to the popular micelada (spiced up beer), my personal favorite was the appropriately named “Bomba” (bomb) – a tasty but undoubtedly potent concoction of several types of alcohol.

The organized events were spectacular but what I enjoyed more was the abundance of talented artists and performers, who brought the city streets to life. I never had to stray far from my hostel door to find someone preforming magic tricks, dancing, playing a musical instrument or entertaining crowds of onlookers with their own artistic talent. The owner of a small restaurant and 25-year resident of Aguascalientes explained why he loves the fair: “The fair brings families together. People who usually only come into town once a month come in several times – and they get all dressed up. The fair gives children more opportunity to spend quality time to with their fathers. I usually visit my family in other parts of Mexico, but when the fair comes, they make their way to little Aguascalientes.”

Traveling as a foreigner in Aguascalientes was very easy and enjoyable since everyone seemed to be curious about where I was from and how I had heard about Aguascalientes. Although it wasn’t necessary, knowing some Spanish certainly helped me to meet more people and get the inside scoop on what events were taking place. If you’re planning a trip to Mexico with your family, friends or like me – solo, and you want a crash course in the country’s culture, art, food, music and fiestas (parties), consider visiting Aguascalientes for next year’s San Marcos National Fair – you won’t be disappointed.

Southern Mexico: The Final Day

After a quick breakfast at Maroma, we set off for the coastal archeological site of Tulum. Going into the visit, I had the idea that Tulum consisted of only one structure on a seaside cliff, but I was pleasantly surprised when we arrived as there are many ancient homes and pyramids at the site. Our expert guide illuminated the site for us and taught us how to distinguish between what was a home and what was a temple by looking at the structure of the ruins. Of course, the brilliantly turquoise waves lapping the beach below (where you’re welcome to go for a swim) made Tulum especially nice to visit.

On the coast at Tulum

After Tulum, we had an emotional goodbye with our beloved driver, Pedro, who over the course of the past fifteen days, has become both a good friend and bodyguard to our group (not to mention that he’s got to be the best/coolest bus driver in Mexico!).

What a great group!

The rest of the day was spent inspecting some incredible private villas and boutique hotels on the Riviera Maya, ending at our final location, the fabulous Esencia, where we shared one last, delicious group dinner. As we reflected over our final meal together, we realized just how special it has been to travel with such an international cast of characters. In total, our group represented nine countries: Mexico, the US, England, Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, Belgium, France, and Italy! I’m confident I speak for the group when I say it was an incredible pleasure to spend 14 days getting to know the customs and traditions not only of Mexico but of each other’s countries as well. I’m not even out of the airport and I’m missing everyone already! Hopefully some of the group members will send us a personal review of the trip so that you can get to know them as well. Until then, stay tuned for more photos and video from the trip!