Southern Mexico: Day 12
Today began with a very special morning as we awoke at 5:30am for private visit and guided tour of the archeological site Chichen Itza. With it’s massive ball court and one of the most impressive pyramids in all of Mexico, Chichen Itza is one of the most visited archeological sites in the country. Having the opportunity to visit the site with no one but a small group of your friends as we have become on this excursion through southern Mexico was a privilege indeed.
Chichen Itza in the morning
The name Chichen Itza means “the mouth of the well of Itza,” referring to the cenote of Itza. The Yucatan peninsula is a very porous land mass covered in natural sink holes called cenotes, which were essential to the ancient Maya for both their physical and spiritual needs. After our visit to the archeological site, we were able to cool off in a local cenote before heading off to the Riviera Maya.
Cooling off in a cenote
After several site inspections in the Riviera Maya, we met for dinner at one of the restaurants at the luxurious Rosewood resort, where we stayed for the night. At dinner, we celebrated the birthday of one of our group members, Steve from Singapore. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a special birthday cake ceremony as Steve was sung “Happy Birthday” in seven different languages by our international group!
Happy Birthday Steve!
Tomorrow is a day of nothing but site-inspections, but stay tuned for the final day of our trip when we’ll visit the picturesque archeological site of Tulum!
Go to The Final Day >>
Southern Mexico: Days 10 & 11
Hacienda Uayamon
Day ten was a day of luxury. Waking up at the gorgeous Hacienda Uayamon, we had breakfast and then relaxed by the pool, which was surrounded by the ruins of one of the buildings on the property. In the height of its prosperity, the Yucatan Peninsula made a fortune in the creation and sales of a certain type of rope. When synthetic replacements came along, the area fell into ruin, leaving many of the haciendas (basically plantations) abandoned. Today, Starwood has restored several of these haciendas into the most fabulous, private, and luxurious hotels you could imagine. After leaving Uayamon, we were fortunate enough to stay in another hacienda property, Hacienda Santa Rosa, the following night!
The pool at Uayamon
After breakfast at Santa Rosa, we set out for an expertly guided exploration of the archeological site Uxmal, which many consider to be one of the finest examples of classic Mayan architecture. We were lucky to have a perfectly sunny afternoon at Uxmal, allowing us to get some surreal photos from the site.
Piramid at Uxmal
From Uxmal, we traveled to Merida, the capital city of the Yucatan. Upon arrival, we visited the Governor’s Palace, where our Journey Mexico guide Alex explained the significance of the giant and moving murals that line its halls. Each mural plays a part in the history of Mexico, and several of the depictions of what the Spanish did to the natives were tough to view.
Spanish torture mural
From the palace, we visited Merida’s most extravagant street, which is lined with massive mansions built in the style of the French. On this street, we visited the super-chic boutique hotel Rosas y Xocolate. If you have a girlfriend or wife who likes pink and chocolate, trust me, she would die to stay here.
Rosas & Xocolate
Moving on from Merida, we journeyed to the magical town of Izamal, the “Yellow City,” where we visited the convent where the Spanish Bishop Diego de Landa Calderon burned many of the Mayan codices and images, effectively erasing much of Mayan history.
The Monastery at Izamal
From Izamal, we traveled to our final destination of the day, the Lodge at Chichen Itza, which is a hotel literally a stone’s throw away from the archeological site. It was originally built to house the first archeologists from Harvard University to excavate the site. Stay tuned for a report on what we saw tomorrow!
Go to Day 12 >>
Southern Mexico: Days 7-9
When we left San Cristobal de las Casas, we entered some pretty deep jungle where internet was non-existent. Here is a brief recap of what we encountered as we set out to find the ancient Maya.
Day 7 – After a hike through the highlands of Chiapas, we reached Toniná, featuring one of the most well developed central temple complexes in Mayan civilization. The base of the temple has a real labyrinth that we were able to wander through in the dark.
Climbing Toniná
From Toniná, we continued on to a natural wonder, the Misol Ha waterfall. Falling more than 130 feet from top to bottom, Misol Ha was impressive even now at the end of the dry season. Our guide Roberto informed us that during the rainy season, the cascade of Misol Ha more than doubles in width and the force of the water is so great, visitors get sprayed with water even when standing high on the banks. Because the rainy season has not yet started, we were able to actually walk behind the waterfall and explore caves containing smaller rivers.
Walking behind the falls at Misol-Ha
Day 8 – Today, we visited two of the most difficult to access and the most impressive sites in the Mayan world: Yaxchilán and Bonampak. Traveling through the jungle by boat, we arrived at Yaxchilán, which was home to a powerful group of Mayans that dominated the Usumacinta River area.
Hiking down from Yaxchilán
Bonampak was a smaller community of Mayans who were actually ruled by Yaxchilán. Their significance, however, is great because they left behind astonishingly vivid frescos inside their temples, accurately depicting battles, bizarre rituals of torture, and bloodletting. The frescoes found at Bonampak are unmatched throughout the Mayan world as we currently know it.
Paintings at Bonampak
Day 9 – Today we set out for the costal city of Campeche but not before an early morning visit to the magnificent archeological site of Palenque. Nestled deep in the jungle at the foot of the Sierra Madre del Sur, Palenque was an important and powerful group of ancient Mayans. Their city was created around 100 BC and although the site is massive and sheds a lot of light on the traditions, rituals, ceremonies, and spirituality of the ancient Maya, only a very small fraction of the actual site has been excavated.
Looking at the Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque
From Palenque, we traveled into the waterfront city of Campeche, a famous port city on the Gulf of Mexico. When the Spaniards overtook the city of Campeche, it became a booming port constantly bustling with trade. The sudden increase in trade traffic quickly attracted pirates who would often attack merchant ships heading back to Spain after loading up with gold and silver from Mexico. Here in Campeche, our groups splits up to stay at two of the Hacienda properties, Puerta Campeche and Uayamon, where we will no doubt redefine our definitions of luxury.
Stay tuned for more!
Go to Days 10 & 11 >>
Southern Mexico: Days 5 and 6
Our private fleet
Day 5 was a bit of a travel day as we boarded two small, private planes and flew from Oaxaca to Tuxtla Gutierrez in the southern most state of Chiapas. From Tuxtla, we transferred to Chiapa de Corso for a boat ride through the Sumidero Canyon.
Cruising through the Sumidero Canyon
The canyon itself was impressive with its walls climbing thousands of feet towards the sky, but I was more impressed with the history of the canyon. Our Journey Mexico Chiapas guide, Roberto, explained to us that when the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Chiapas with ally Mexican Indians, they met resistance from a specific group of natives in the area. Out numbered but refusing to give in to the Spanish, this group ultimately retreated into the canyon using its steep walls and narrow entry as natural protection. Hernan Cortez and his troops eventually caught up with the rebellious natives and destroyed them.
San Cristobal de las Casas
After the canyon, we had lunch in Chiapa de Corso then continued on the highland city of San Cristobal de las Casas, where the climate is drastically cooler than that of the lowlands from where we came. Our group was immediately impressed by the beauty of San Cristobal. It has a very European feel with its narrow streets and abundance of cafes, restaurants, bars, and shops. The city has a very bohemian vibe going on and I was surprised to see the amount of European travelers who looked like they’d been camped out in San Cristobal for some time. Before settling into our hotel, we did site inspections of Villa Mercedes, Casa Felipe Flores, and Casa Mexicana (where we have been staying).
Day 6 began with breakfast in the hotel as usual, which was followed by a trip into the outskirts of town to a village called San Juan Chamula. Roberto gave us some nice insight into the history of the local people on our way out, explaining how the Chamula peoples’ ancestors were one of the few groups to never be fully conquered or captured by the Spanish. Their ancient traditions still carry on today, and we were lucky enough to be permitted into their church to witness their most unique customs.
Roberto teaching us about San Juan Chamulan Customs
The Chamula are still considered “pagan” by the catholic church, even though the religion they practice is sort of a mash-up of catholic and ancient native beliefs. Roberto told us several of the parables they hold to be true including one in which Jesus had a younger brother who was basically murdered by Jesus for being too greedy. Inside the church (whose floor was covered with pine needles, burning incense, and lit candles), we witnessed many local shamans performing healing rituals on the sick. Some of the rituals involved rubbing the back of the sick person with chicken eggs, steady chanting, and the drinking of a locally brewed rum (called Posh), which they would also pour out between the candles for the Saints to drink.
The church of San Juan Chamula
The most striking ritual actually involved a sacrifice. Roberto explained that the Chamula people believe that certain illnesses are caused because a piece of the sick person’s soul has been taken by dark spirits. To retrieve the piece or pieces of missing soul, a shaman will offer the spirits a chicken in exchange for the soul. To do this, the chicken must be killed right there in the church. In the fifteen or so minutes we were in the church, we probably witnessed four or five chickens being strangled in sacrifice. Roberto noted that Priest of the church (who had been thrown out by the people many years before) is occasionally called back to the church to baptize the children. After he performs the baptism, however, he is then asked to leave again as he does not approve of the sacrifices, rituals, and the drinking of posh within the church. (See reactions of our visit into the church from three members of our group below).
From San Juan Chamula, we drove to another local village called Zinacantán, where we again had the pleasure of being welcomed into the home of a local family to learn about their customs. This particular family produced brightly colored rugs which are woven on what they call a back-strap loom. One of the women ties the one end of the loom to a post and attaches to the other end to a belt that is worn around her back. Leaning backwards to create tension in the loom, she weaves intricate patterns into the rug. Many of our group purchased rugs and table runners from the family as they were too beautiful to pass up.
Zinacantán woman weaving
Before leaving the home for an incredible open-air buffet lunch, we were treated to some homemade quesadillas with beans on blue tortillas as well as a few bottles of homemade posh. It was tough not to spoil our appetites with more than one quesadilla as they were so delicious. The posh was tasty as well – and potent! In fact, two of our group members enjoyed it so much they “got married” in traditional Zinacantán wardrobe. Although the wedding only lasted a few minutes, it was a beautiful ceremony.
Our newlyweds
After lunch, we visited the enchanting estate of the Parador San Juan for a site-inspection then returned to the hotel to relax before a lovely Italian dinner on a terrace overlooking one of the many lively streets of San Cristobal. Tomorrow, we travel to for Palenque, stopping at several ancient archeological sites on the way. Stay tuned for more to come!
Go to Days 7-9 >>
Southern Mexico: Day 4
After breakfast, we traveled to the Tlacolula Valley for the weekly Sunday tianguis, which is one of Oaxaca’s oldest and most important markets. Florencio guided us through the thousands of stalls selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to clothing, to livestock. I’m pretty sure you could find anything at that market if you looked hard enough.
Oaxaca Market
There is a church at the center of the market, which is both beautiful and interesting. Florencio explained to us that the main part of the church is where the people from Oaxaca City take their mass (in Spanish) while at market but that the local people worship in a smaller chapel attached of the side of the church (in their native language of Zapoteca). We respectfully entered the chapel and Florencio took us to a corner where there is a very rare (and very lifelike) sculpture of Jesus Christ made of real bone, real human hair, and a sugar mold. It was so real looking and the agony on the figures face was so vivid, you couldn’t help but be moved. Florencio explained to us how the local people pin little charms and photos to the figure’s robe, asking for blessings or health.
Market church (Local chapel on the right side)
Leaving the hustle and bustle of the market, we had the immense privilege of visiting a local Zapotec family of artisans in Teotitlan del Valle. In accord with their traditions, we initially met the family in their alter room (something all families in the community have in their homes), where the eldest of the family offered peace and welcomed us into her home (all in her Zapotecan dialect translated to us by Florencio). As a group, we offered a candle of peace, which was lit and placed next to the single candle the family had burning. Turning our words into actions (which we learned is crucial in their customs), each one of us stepped forward and exchanged embraces with each family member. I think I speak for the group when I say that the tradition was both spiritual and moving.
After our greeting, we were officially friends of the family and were given two demonstrations of how their family makes their crafts. The first was a candle-making demonstration from start to finish, showing us how the granddaughter take pure bee’s wax, melts it down adding color if needed, dips hand woven wicks into the liquid wax, hangs them to dry, and then repeats the process (which usually takes hundreds of dippings). She also showed us how she uses handmade molds to create shaped candles like those of little birds. Mairhi, from Abercombie & Kent Cheltenham, actually got to (carefully) make a bird herself!
Making candles by hand
The second demonstration of how the family weaves rugs of intricate designs was fascinating as well. To make the dyes, the family actually collects these tiny insects that live on cactuses, which, when dried out and crushed, become a bright red powder. By mixing certain amounts of acid (like that found in lemons) and other flowers, they can alter the color to produce blues, greens, and other colors as well. We watched the grandfather work the brightly colored threads on a massive loom, and several of our group purchased some of the valuable rugs to take home.
Our weaving demonstration
Before we left the family’s home, they cooked us a huge three-course lunch, which we ate a very large table in the alter room. After being offered cold beers and warm mezcal, we were served homemade cheese and salsa; a hearty soup of vegetables, squash stems, and squash blossoms; and finally homemade tamales – Oaxacan style. On special occasions in the Journey Mexico office, we eat tamales but I have to say, the tamales we get in Puerto Vallarta are nothing compared to these. The tamales (which are made of eclair-shaped cornmeal stuffed with different meats, then wrapped in corn husks and steamed) in Puerto Vallarta are usually quite fluffy and a little more than an inch in diameter. These Oaxacan style tamales were very flat with a consistency similar to a ravioli. They were covered in a savory red sauce and were just delicious – probably one of the best meals of my life.
Lunch in a traditional Zapotec home
As we were leaving, the grandmother explained to us (through Florencio) that she was sad because she only speaks her native dialect of Zapotec and could not properly express the love she felt for each of us and the gratitude she felt for us having visited her home. She also explained that it was not random coincidence that life had brought us all together, and she personally blessed each of us as we exited. Again, it was a very touching, moving, and inspiring experience that I feel very fortunate to have been a part of.
Pork and shrimp masterpiece by Alejandro Ruiz
When we returned to downtown Oaxaca, we went on three site-inspections of Casa Abu, Camino Real, and Casa del Sotano before freshening up for dinner. Again we were invited to the chef’s table by famous signature chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca. As we sat to dine on the rooftop terrace, the skies opened up giving the dinner, literally, an electrifying atmosphere. Fortunately, we were under cover and were able to enjoy the five courses of magic that Alejandro and his team made for us as we watched the lightening and downpour all around us. In the morning, we leave via two small private planes for Tuxtla Gutierrez!
Go to Days 5 & 6 >>
Southern Mexico: Day 3
Dinner overlooking the zocalo in Oaxaca
Friday evening ended with a hearty, traditional Oaxacan dinner at Azador Don Vasco, overlooking the lively town square. We were privileged enough to have been invited to dinner by two members of the Mexican Tourism Board Oaxaca – Nisa Lopez and Veronica Espinoza, the Oaxaca Secretary of Tourism.
Morning walking tour of Oaxaca
After sleeping off the rich mole from dinner, we enjoyed a light breakfast and embarked on a morning walking tour of Oaxaca with Journey Mexico master guide, Florencio. We were quickly in awe of the gorgeous architecture of Oaxaca, a mix of Spanish and neo-classical styles. Florencio illuminated the scenic streets with insight into the history of each important building, of which there are many. We learned of a famous Oaxacan and Mexican artist, Francisco Toledo, who purchased and restored several buildings throughout the city, making each a unique museum of art, and then donated them to the people. Toledo was concerned that natives from outside the city were intimidated by museums thinking they were only for the rich, so he was proud to declare that all of his museums would be (and still are) free for everyone to enjoy.
Breakfast at the market
Leaving the city center, we climbed the nearby mountains in our coach until we reached the lofty archeological site of Monte Alban where the royalty and elite of the Zapotec (and later the Mixtec) people built their homes and temples, some 7,000+ feet above sea level. Florencio gave us a wonderful talk about the customs and traditions of the ancient Zapotecs as well as about the local flora that was so important to both the ancient people of Monte Alban as well as to Oaxacans today. After Florencio’s moving illustrations, we were free to explore the homes, the ballcourt, and the temples of the site.
Florencio describing the ball court of Monte Alban
From Monte Alban, we drove to the outskirts of town to meet Zenny, a famous wood-carver who, with his family, makes intricately carved and vividly painted animal figurines of all sizes. We were mesmerized by Zenny’s skill and by how each member of the family had been trained to be a master of a different stage in production. After demonstrations of carving and painting, we were treated to a homemade lunch of chicken and squash-blossom quesadillas, accompanied by shots of Mezcal, the smokey sister of tequila.
Zenny and family hard at work
After purchasing some of Zenny’s crafts to take home, we traveled to the workshop of another famous artisan, Doña Sophia who, although she can’t remember the actual number, is ninety-something in age. For nearly a century, she has been shaping pottery and ceramics by hand from a special mixture of local clay, which, when fired in a certain method, turns completely black. Doña Sophia is one of the few potters in Mexico who still uses only her hands and two plates to spin the clay as she works, as opposed to the now common mechanical methods of spinning the material. Doña Sophia has trained her family to continue her craft and we were privileged to see her shape a pot in front of us, which was then decorated with carved intricacies by her great-granddaughter. I don’t think it’s possible for me to express in words just how special both the demonstration and meeting Doña Sophia was.
Doña Sofia at work
Having business to attend to, we reluctantly left the pottery shop and headed back into town for site-inspections of three beautiful hotels: Hostal La Noria, Casa Catrina, and Casa Oaxaca. Finishing our work for the day, we freshened up and met again at Casa Crespo, where we were invited to a special, six course dinner by owner, chef, and long time Journey Mexico friend, Oscar Corizoza. More to come tomorrow!
Go to Day 4 >>
Southern Mexico: Day 2
Day 2 was a bit of a transit day as we made our way from Mexico City to Oaxaca, some 290 miles south/west. We did make two stops along the way, however, before we settled into our luxury coach for the 4 hour drive to Oaxaca.
Spanish Church Atop Tlachihualtepetl Pyramid
Our first stop was in Cholula to view Tlachihualtepetl, the Great Pyramid of Cholula, which is the largest archeological pyramid in the world (yes, bigger than all the pyramids of Egypt!). It may not be as well known to the world because of the fact that it is still buried under vegetation. When the Spanish conquered the area, they built a giant church atop the pyramid and allowed the pyramid to be covered with grass and weeds. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to actually explore the pyramid and cathedral, but just seeing it in person was impressive.
Restuarants on the Zocala in Peubla
After Cholula, we continued on to the city of Puebla, with which I was most impressed. The city’s architecture consists of both Renaissance and Mexican Baroque buildings and structures, many of which are painted in bright blues, reds, and yellows. Puebla has a beautiful zocalo, or town square, surrounded by restaurants and charming cafes. On one side of the square is a cathedral that has the tallest bell tower in Mexico!
The Cathedral on the Zocalo of Puebla
We visited another church in Cholula that was radiant with golden intricacies before doing a site-inspection of Mesones Sacristia, which was a really interesting hotel with a lush courtyard. Before heading off to Oaxaca, we completed one last site-inspection at La Purificadora hotel, another of the Grupo Habita.
Lunch at the Purificadora Hotel
Purifacadora Hotel was amazing. The building used to be an old water purification factory, hence the name, and has since been converted into a massive boutique hotel that defines chic luxury. We had lunch at one of the gigantic wooden tables (made from beams found in the factory) before making our journey south. Stay tuned for three days of reporting from Oaxaca!
Go to Day 3 >>
The Riviera Nayarit – Mexico’s Newest Hot Spot
Casa Papelillos in Punta Mita
The Riviera Nayarit has been getting a lot of attention these days, and for good reason. The Riviera Nayarit is home to some of Mexico’s most beautiful coastline, private villas, and resorts. Travel Weekly recently published an article called Culture, Adventure, Sand, and Surf Await Visitors to Riviera Nayarit, highlighting the variety of adventure and nature opportunities available in the area as well as the rich culture and the vivid art of the Huichol people, indigenous to the highlands that tower over the coast.
Celebrities have been sneaking away to the area for years and many own gorgeous cost-line villas in Punta Mita, located just north of the long time favorite coastal city of Puerto Vallarta. Us Magazine.com recently published photos of the international famed Kardashian family celebrating Kourtney Kardashian’s 32nd birthday in Punta Mita.
Punta Mita is also home to the St. Regis Punta Mita the Four Seasons Punta Mita as well as countless private villas available for rent that will make your jaw drop. Due to it’s proximity to Puerto Vallarta (where the main Journey Mexico offices are located), Punta Mita and the Riviera Nayarit is a favorite weekend-retreat and surf destination for the Journey Mexico team.
Southern Mexico: Day 1
Day one was a whirlwind! Our first day in Mexico City began at 8am with an amazing fruit breakfast in our hotel (Las Alcobas), which is pictured above. Shortly after, we set out to do a series of hotel site-inspections, which took us to some of the most chic and beautiful hotels in the city including Hotel Habita, the Four Seasons, and the St. Regis (where Bono of U2 is currently staying although we weren’t lucky enough to run into him today).
After a few hours of work, we got to enjoy an expertly guided tour of the historic center of Mexico City including the Zocalo (which is the second biggest public square in the world!), the National Palace, the Templo Mayor, and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Obviously they were all amazing, but I have to say that the National Palace is probably the most impressive thing I’ve ever seen in my life. Imagining the royal court that actually lived, met, and partied in the palace as you walked its endless halls was absolutely surreal.
Diego Rivera Murals in the Palacio Nacional
The gigantic murals of the palace, painted by the famed Diego Rivera, were impressive but I didn’t grasp the true significance of the paintings until until our Journey Mexico super-guide, Juan Carlos, gave us an in-depth description of what the murals actually meant and signified. How someone could conceptualize paintings so large and so complex with so many levels of meaning just baffled me.
Next came lunch at a local torta/juice cafe, which was both delicious and fun. They had a larger variety of tortas (Mexican sandwiches) than I’ve ever seen in one place. I went with “The Mexicana,” which consisted of chorizo, bistec, jalepeños, and queso (Mexican sausage, steak, peppers, and cheese). Sooo good. The variety of juices was also impressive and they even let a few of us hop behind the counter to squeeze some fresh concoctions of our own.
Working the Juicer
After lunch, it was back to work with a site-inspection of the Mexico’s Gran Hotel, which, to me, was breathtaking. The entire ceiling of the lobby, which is probably the size of a football field about four floors up, is one enormous work of stain-glass and cast iron. At each end of the lobby is an old, elegant elevator also made of cast iron – so old in fact, they are the first two elevators ever to arrive in all of Latin America, and they still work!). We actually ran into another VIP Journey Mexico group at the hotel and I got to watch them ride up the elevators, which is a privilege not offered to most guests.
Continuing on by foot, we walked several scenic blocks to the home of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera for a private tour on which our JM guide let us in on a secret that many of the thousands of visitors to the museum each year are not told! I won’t give it away, but here’s a hint: In one of the rooms you visit, you are closer to Frida than you could ever imagine.
Frida's house from the courtyard
After learning about the fascinating lives of two of Mexico’s most cherished artists, we stopped for a quick visit to the impressive Church of Coyoacan before heading out to two more site-inspections at Brick, one of Mexico’s newest boutique hotels, and at Condesa DF, another hotel by Grupo Habita – the kings of cool in Mexico.
Like I said, long day, but it was certainly worth the tired legs. Now we’re off to relax at enjoy a sure-to-be amazing dinner at Los Alcobas’s Dulce Patria restaurant, one of the hottest restaurants in Mexico City, with the Michael Chiche, the General Manager of Las Alcobas, and Marta Ortiz, the famous chef of Dulce Patria. In the morning, we leave Mexico City for Puebla and Oaxaca – stay tuned!
Zach with Marta Ortiz and Michael Chiche at dinner
*Morning Update* Dinner was fabulous! Several of us had duck in a rich mole while most of the group had a filet of sea bass that looked delicious as well. Two perfectly paired wines from Baja California were served throughout the evening, which elevated the culinary experience even further. After dinner, Michael surprised with a special champagne toast in the penthouse suite of Las Alcobas! Muchas gracias Marta y Michael! Now on to Puebla!
Go to Day 2 >>
The US’s New Travel Warning for Mexico Misleading
As many are aware of by now, the US State Department updated its travel warning for Mexico on April 22nd of 2011, broadening it to include several more areas than the previous warning. While we at Journey Mexico agree that safety is always the number one priority when it comes to travel in any foreign country, we also agree with those who feel that the language of the new travel warning is confusing, vague, and fairly irresponsible.
As Travel Weekly has pointed out in an article from April 28th and in a newer article from May 5th, the new travel warning cites the entire states of Nayarit and Jalisco as areas to be avoided instead of focusing specifically on the troubled pockets of the major cities in these states where crime has occurred. Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (recently voted by the AARP as the number one place in the world for Americans to retire) and Punta Mita, Nayarit (arguably Mexico’s hottest new beach region) have shown no signs of recent danger to tourists and are clearly misrepresented by the US State Department’s new warning.
Lumping Puerto Vallarta and Punta Mita in with the dangerous pockets of Guadalajara (Jalisco) and Tepic (Nayarit) is hindering tourism to these areas, costing thousands of jobs for the honest, hard working people of Mexico and depriving travelers of what would, undoubtedly, be one of the most memorable travel experiences of their lives. It’s troubling to see the US State Department make such careless exaggerations, especially when a closer examination of the dangerous regions of the US reveals a country littered with violence and murder. Yet if you asked a member of the US State Department if travelers should avoid visiting Buffalo, New York because there is violence crime in Queens, New York, I very much doubt he/she would say yes. It also seems contradictory for the US to paint such an inaccurate portrait of the safety of Mexico when so many of the country’s own investors are pouring millions of dollars into Mexican resorts and hotels as we pointed out in an article from April.
Again, we always encourage travelers to use common sense and exercise caution when traveling to new areas, but we also encourage those interested in traveling to Mexico to do some research into the true state of affairs in this vast country. We are confident that through accurate reports and through the testimonials of those who have been here, you will find Mexico to be as (if not more) safe, affordable, and rewarding as any other major tourist destination in the world.
Rodolfo Lopez Negrete, chief operating officer of the Mexico Tourism Board, does a nice job commenting on the current state of affairs in Mexico in this recent interview. You can also learn more about the current state of affairs in the Safety of Mexico section of our blog.
On the Road: Southern Mexico
View Southern Mexico Explorer (May) in a larger map
After recently returning from a special trip to Mexico City and the Colonial Heartland and on only a few days rest, Journey Mexico team members head back out into the field tomorrow for a 14 day excursion starting in Mexico City through southern Mexico.
Our travels will take us to the major cities of the central/southern Mexico, breathtaking natural wonders, intimate local villages, and the astonishing archeological sites of ancient Aztecs and Mayans as the Journey Mexico team continues to comb the country for new, unique, and authentic travel experiences to offer our clients.
Joining the trip as the media mogul, I’ll be posting photos and day-by-day reviews of our travels each night. Stay tuned for on-the-ground reports from Central and Southern highlights such as Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Tuxtla Gutierrez, the Sumidero Canyon, San Cristobal de las Casas, Palenque, Campeche, Merida, and the Riviera Maya!
Brownell 1887 Trip
Journey Mexico President, Zachary Rabinor, and Director of Operations, Matteo Luthi, recently returned from a special trip with close partners and dear friends at Brownell Travel. Each year Brownell Travel celebrates their top producers with their annual 1887 club trip to Mexico. This year’s trip began in Mexico City and visited San Miguel de Allende in the Colonial Heartland and ended on the gorgeous shores of the Riviera Maya. Below is a brief outline as well as a slide show of the trip.
Mexico City
Teotihuacan
After arrival, the group was privately transferred to the historical center to explore the Zocalo (the 2nd largest public square in the world after Moscow’s Red Square), the National Palace and it’s famous murals painted by Diego Rivera, the Templo Mayor (the once important temple of the Aztecs), and the city’s magnificent cathedral. They then were treated to a site visit of Mexico City’s newest and hottest boutique hotel Las Alcobas – ending back at their exquisite Oasis in the heart of the upscale Polanco Neighborhood Four Seasons Mexico City.
The next day took travelers first to the Museum of Anthropology to learn about the ancient civilizations of the Aztecs and Mayas and then to the UNESCO World Heritage archeological site of Teotihuacan to admire the accomplishments of this ancient civilization first hand! After lunch, everyone continued on to San Miguel de Allende for a spectacular dinner before unwinding for the night at the fabulous Casa de Sierra Nevada by Orient Express.
San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende
The 1887 club and friends had three days in the historic city of San Miguel de Allende to explore the city with expert guides, relax by the pool at the hotel, visit some of the finest jewelers in Mexico, and learn to cook local traditional recipes with local master chefs. They also were treated to lunch and a sit inspection of the brand new Rosewood San Miguel de Allende.
On the third day, the group took a day trip to the nearby city of Guanajuato, once one of the richest silver mining areas in Mexico, to marvel at the Spanish architecture, explore its narrow, European-like streets, and visit local artisans as they worked in their studios. They also were treated to an unforgettable chef’s table at Jardin de los Milagros complete with explanations of each dish by the dynamic, passionate, and quickly rising star Signature Chef Bricio Dominguez. Have a look at Martha Gaughen, partner of Brownell Travel’s thoughts on her culinary experience here on her blog .
Riviera Maya
Maroma Resort on the Riviera Maya
After being flown to the Riviera Maya, the 1887 Club found themselves barefoot in the fine white sands with frosty Margaritas as day turned to night over Mexico’s dazzling Caribbean Sea and settled in to the breathtaking Maroma Resort by Orient Express. The following morning found the 1887 Club winners relaxing on the beach, enjoying Maroma’s luxuriant SPA and enjoying their lavish suites before splitting up for lunch and site inspections at Rosewood Mayakoba , Banyan Tree Mayakoba, Fairmont Mayakoba, and the Mandarin Oriental Riviera Maya. After lunch the group set out on a a catamaran to snorkel the crystalline waters of the Caribbean. In the evening, the group returned and freshened up for their farewell dinner at the Grand Velas Riviera Maya.
As always, the beauty, culture, adventure, and people of Mexico delivered an unforgettable trip for the Brownell Group. It’s always a pleasure travel with Brownell, and we can’t to welcome them back!
Mother’s Day in Mexico
Unlike in the US where Mother’s Day is celebrated on the second Sunday in May, Mexicans honor the mothers of their country each year on May 10th. Much like in the US, sons and daughters thank their mothers on Día de las Madres for all they do by bringing them flowers, cards, and gifts. For some families, attending special church services together and going out to dinner is also part of the Mother’s Day ritual.
There are, however, two traditions of Mother’s Day unique to Mexico that I find especially endearing. The first takes place on May 9th, on the eve of Mother’s day in Mexico, when children travel to their mother’s home to spend family time together. The second happens the next morning when children awaken their mothers by serenading them with special Mother’s Day songs and occasionally with little skits they rehearsed beforehand. Affluent families often hire mariachis to accompany the children as they sing. Travelers in Mexico are often pleasantly surprised when awoken by the beautiful sound of children singing to their mothers from the street.
For US travelers, vacationing in Mexico in May, where you can celebrate Mother’s Day on both Sunday and the 9th, offers the opportunity to really create a special experience around the holiday with your family. And if you really want to impress your mother while you’re here in Mexico, start practicing Las Mañanitas so you can serenade her like the children in the video below!
Why You Should Go To Mexico
This article was originally posted on CNN Traveler and was written by Robert Reid
Colonial areas safer than ever
New York (CNN) — Mexico tourism is having a bit of a PR problem lately.
Reports of mass grave sites, daylight shootings and carjackings from the escalating drug war don’t exactly build confidence for a family planning a week’s holiday. And on April 22, the U.S. State Department upgraded its travel warnings to target 14 of Mexico’s 31 states.
Now’s not the time to visit our southerly neighbor, right? Well, wrong. Mexico is a lot safer than you may realize.
We tend to lump all of Mexico — a country the size of Western Europe — together. For example, a border incident resulted in the death of a Colorado tourist last year, and the Texas Department of Homeland Security recommended against travel to all of Mexico.
Yet it’s in the 17 of 31 states not named in the newly expanded warnings where you’ll find the most rewarding destinations: the Yucatan Peninsula and Baja California beach resorts, colonial hill towns like the ex-pat haven of San Miguel de Allende, even the capital Mexico City.
Merida, Yucatan
An hour inland from Cancun’s beaches, Yucatan state — home to the most popular Mayan sites and “real Mexican” colonial cities such as Merida and Valladolid — is among the country’s safest. The state, with roughly the same population as Kansas, saw two drug-related deaths in 2010. Wichita, Kansas, alone had six gang-related killings over the same period.
Lonely Planet: 8 top places to (safely) visit in Mexico now
In most of central and southern Mexico, drug violence simply isn’t on the radar of daily life. “It’s as easy-going as it’s always been,” said Deborah Felixson, a diving operator on Cozumel who is “shocked” when people say they had been scared to go to the Caribbean island. “We’re just small communities here. We all know what everyone’s up to.”
That sentiment is found even in places once linked with political tension, such as Chiapas state and Oaxaca City, where political protest turned into a stand-off in 2006.
“Things are so much quieter now,” said Rogelio Vallesteros, who runs a Spanish-language school in Oaxaca City. “People call to ask about safety all the time, then they come and see how quiet it is. We’re normal, really.”
Mexico tourism official: Vacation spots far removed from violence
After the swine-flu crisis of 2009 — when some cruise ships diverted routes from Mexican ports that had no reported cases to American ones that did — travel bounced back a bit last year. Interestingly, the increase of returning Canadians and many Western Europeans doubled that of the American rate. We seem to remain particularly leery of Mexico.
Exploring Uxmal in the Yucatan Peninsula
That’s sad. My love of travel began with childhood visits to Mexican ruins and beaches, and I feel the U.S. is fortunate, not cursed, to be so close to a place that offers jungles, deserts, volcanoes, beaches, coral reefs, ancient pyramids, living pre-European cultures and some of the world’s most satisfying cuisines.
And of course the best reason to go: the people.
A couple years ago, I informally polled various innkeepers and tour operators worldwide to find out who are the world’s friendliest travelers. Guess who won. “Mexicans are such a joy to have here,” one Bulgarian guesthouse owner e-mailed back. “They make everyone feel happier.”
And it’s often better in Mexico, where locals show particular gusto in love of life. Once I saw fireworks go off in Mexico City, before sunset, and asked a local why. He was surprised I didn’t know. “It’s Friday,” he explained.
In restaurants, strangers seeing each other’s eyes instinctively say “buen provecho” before eating. It’s an earnest wish that their food should not only be tasty, but really pleasurable, and that the hope that their life will be a bit better as a result. There really is no English equivalent. Even our adopted “bon appétit” pales in significance.
Naturally, crime exists everywhere in Mexico.
I’ve been pickpocketed in Guadalajara (and in New York, too). But that’s the extent of my unpleasant scrapes in a dozen visits that have taken me to home-stay language courses, traditional Mayan markets, mummy museums, cenotes (surreal limestone sinkholes in which you can swim) and even Zapatista zones in the south.
Most travel to Mexico, ultimately, is simply good travel. It’s fun, affordable, eye-opening and fascinating (seriously, what other city of 21 million other than Mexico City is founded on a filled-in lake?).
But, no, you don’t have to visit Mexico. And there are certainly places, like Ciudad Juarez or Tamaulipas state, I’d never visit now. Just know that the Mexico experienced on the ground almost never matches the Mexico we increasingly see and read about.
Table Talk – Albondigas al Chipotle Meatballs
In this new webisode of Table Talk, Journey Mexico and El Arrayán restaurant show you how to make a Mexican variation of an classic international dish – the meatball. In Mexico, Albondigas al Chiptole (Chipotle Meatballs) are usually served in a tomato based soup, which containing rice and vegetables as well, but we encourage you to make your own variations and let us know how it turned out in the comments below!
Our Mexico: Nature
Click Image for the Full Ad
Mexico is such a vast and visually stunning country that we at Journey Mexico have decided to showcase the nature, culture, adventure, and luxury experiences that await travelers in Mexico in a series of web-ads called Our Mexico.
We will release a new ad monthly, which we hope you’ll find beautiful enough to share with your friends!
This month’s ad focuses on Nature Travel in Mexico. You can view the full ad here.
Danger Increasing in Mexico? Large Investments Say No
On April 22nd, the US State Department updated its travel warning for Mexico, expanding it to include five new states: Jalisco, Nayarit, San Luis Potosi, Sonora, and Zacatecas. Although the Travel Warning clearly states: “There is no evidence that U.S. tourists have been targeted by criminal elements due to their citizenship,” the increase of the warning clearly implies that danger in Mexico is increasing. A closer look at indicators from outside the US State Department, however, seem to suggest otherwise – specifically foreign investment.
Mexico’s Minister of Tourism, Gloria Guevara, is confident that Mexico’s tourism sector will receive approximately $3.5 billion over the next three years from foreign investment (believed to be from Spanish, German and Asian companies, specifically). Guevara has stated that “there exists a committed investment of $2.5 billion” and that another $1 billion “will be arriving at the proper time.” Several long time investors are already in motion on fresh projects, and they’re American.
Current W Hotel Mexico City
Travel Weekly recently published an article detailing plans for two new W Hotels to be completed (one in Mexico City and one on the Riviera Maya) by 2014. This new W in Mexico City will actually be the capital city’s second W Hotel, both managed by the American company Starwood Hotels & Resorts. During construction of the new 132-room W, Starwood will also be dishing out a top-to-bottom, multimillion-dollar renovation to the already existing W.
The Riviera Maya W is said to be a 180-room W Retreat & Spa Kanai. The Retreat & Spa will actually be the centerpiece of an even larger project, the Kanai Resort development, which will include four hotels and a beach club.
Apple Leisure Group, based in Pennsylvania, USA, and owners of AMResorts, are nearing completion on two large scale, all inclusive projects, Secrets Litibu and Dreams Litibu, both located in Punta Mita, Nayarit – one of the states added to the newest travel warning.
Personal investments are being made by tens of thousands of American and Canadian families who have chosen to retire in Puerto Vallarta, which was recently chosen by the AARP as the number one place to retire abroad in the world. Puerto Vallarta is located in the state of Jalisco, another state recently added to the US State Department’s new travel warning.
So is danger in Mexico really increasing as the travel warning suggests? Foreign investments, both corporate and consumer, suggest no. And you know what they say: “Always follow the money.”
CHOOSE A DESTINATION
